不銹鋼離心泵|原裝離心泵

凱森（KAYSEN）品牌，*的十*，我們的不銹鋼離心泵在SchwbischGmnd生產(chǎn)。

凱森始終堅(jiān)持“重質(zhì)量，講信譽(yù)”為宗旨。產(chǎn)品現(xiàn)暢銷全國各地，并已逐步開發(fā)海外市場。公司多次被評為“重合同講信用”企業(yè)，深得用戶的信賴和廣泛的贊譽(yù)。

KAYSEN凱森不銹鋼離心泵概述

臥式單級單吸離心泵采用*進(jìn)的水力模型，根據(jù)IS型單級單吸離心泵之性能參數(shù)和立式泵的獨(dú)特結(jié)構(gòu)組合設(shè)計(jì)，并嚴(yán)格按照國際iso2858進(jìn)行設(shè)計(jì)制造，該產(chǎn)品軸封選用硬質(zhì)合金機(jī)械密封裝置，具有高效節(jié)能、性能可靠、安裝使用方便等特點(diǎn)。

通過不銹鋼離心泵與管路系統(tǒng)的特性曲線圖分析了離心泵流量調(diào)節(jié)的幾種主要方式：出口閥門調(diào)節(jié)、泵變速調(diào)節(jié)和泵的串、并聯(lián)調(diào)節(jié)。用特性曲線圖分析了出口閥門調(diào)節(jié)和泵變速調(diào)節(jié)兩種方式的能耗損失，并進(jìn)行了對比，指出離心泵用變速調(diào)節(jié)流量比用出口閥門調(diào)節(jié)流量可以更好的節(jié)約能耗，且節(jié)能效率與流量變化大小有關(guān)。在實(shí)際應(yīng)用時(shí)應(yīng)該注意變速調(diào)節(jié)的范圍，才能更好的應(yīng)用離心泵變速調(diào)節(jié)。

不銹鋼離心泵是廣泛應(yīng)用于化工工業(yè)系統(tǒng)的一種通用流體機(jī)械。它具有性能適應(yīng)范圍廣（包括流量、壓頭及對輸送介質(zhì)性質(zhì)的適應(yīng)性）、體積小、結(jié)構(gòu)簡單、操作容易、操作費(fèi)用低等諸多優(yōu)點(diǎn)。通常，所選離心泵的流量、壓頭可能會和管路中要求的不一致，或由于生產(chǎn)任務(wù)、工藝要求發(fā)生變化，此時(shí)都要求對泵進(jìn)行流量調(diào)節(jié)，實(shí)質(zhì)是改變離心泵的工作點(diǎn)。離心泵的工作點(diǎn)是由泵的特性曲線和管路系統(tǒng)特性曲線共同決定的，因此，改變?nèi)魏我粋€(gè)的特性曲線都可以達(dá)到流量調(diào)節(jié)的目的。離心泵的流量調(diào)節(jié)方式主要有調(diào)節(jié)閥控制、變速控制以及泵的并、串聯(lián)調(diào)節(jié)等。由于各種調(diào)節(jié)方式的原理不同，除有自己的優(yōu)缺點(diǎn)外，造成的能量損耗也不一樣，為了尋求*、能耗最小、最節(jié)能的流量調(diào)節(jié)方式，必須全面地了解離心泵的流量調(diào)節(jié)方式與能耗之間的關(guān)系。

主要特點(diǎn)：
不銹鋼離心泵蓋通過止口固定要中間支架上,然后通過泵體與中間支架止口的連接把泵蓋夾緊在中間.泵體是軸向吸入,徑向排出,腳支承式,可直接固定在底座上.懸架部件通過止口固定在中間支架上,并用懸架支架支撐在底座上.為拆卸方便,設(shè)計(jì)了加長聯(lián)軸器,檢修時(shí)可以不拆卸進(jìn)出口聯(lián)接管路、泵體和電動機(jī)。只需拆下長聯(lián)軸器的中間聯(lián)接件，即可退出轉(zhuǎn)子部件進(jìn)行檢修。這是國際上一種通用的結(jié)構(gòu)形式。 泵的密封型式采用填料密封或機(jī)械密封，由用戶根據(jù)需要選用，同時(shí)根據(jù)需要允許采用適合于IS03069規(guī)定的密封空腔尺寸的其他結(jié)構(gòu)的軸封型式（如帶波紋管的機(jī)械密封和付葉輪密封等等）。

主要優(yōu)點(diǎn)：

維修方便：更換密封、軸承、簡易占地更省：出口可向左、向右、向上三個(gè)方向，便管道布置安裝，節(jié)省空間

運(yùn)行平穩(wěn)：泵軸的*同心度及葉輪優(yōu)異的動靜平衡，保證平穩(wěn)運(yùn)行，絕無振動

噪音低：兩個(gè)低噪音的軸承支撐下的水泵，運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)平穩(wěn)，除電機(jī)微弱聲響，基本無噪音

故障率低：結(jié)構(gòu)簡單合理，關(guān)鍵部分采用*品質(zhì)配套，整機(jī)無故障工作時(shí)間大大提高

滴水不漏：不同材質(zhì)的硬質(zhì)合金密封，保證了不同介質(zhì)輸送均無泄漏

主要應(yīng)用：

臥式化工泵，供輸送不含固體顆粒，具有腐蝕性、粘度類似于水的液體，適用于石油、化工、冶金、電力、造紙、食品制藥和合成纖維等部門，使用溫度為-20℃～+120℃

臥式管道油泵，供輸送汽油、煤油、柴油等油類產(chǎn)品或易燃、易爆液體，被輸送介質(zhì)溫度為-20～ +120℃

臥式清水離心泵，供輸送清水及物理化學(xué)性質(zhì)類似于清水的其它液體之用，適用于工業(yè)和城市給排水、高層建筑增壓送水、園林噴灌、消防增壓、遠(yuǎn)距離輸送、暖通制冷循環(huán)、浴室等冷暖水循環(huán)增壓及設(shè)備配套，使用溫度t≤80℃

臥式熱水泵廣泛適用于：冶金、化工、紡織、造紙以及賓館飯店等鍋爐熱水增壓循環(huán)輸送及城市采暖系統(tǒng)，iswr型使用溫度t≤120℃

基本的預(yù)防性維護(hù)保持泵流動

執(zhí)行預(yù)防性維護(hù)有助于防止泵停機(jī)

有人說：“你不知道自己得到了什么，直到它消失?！睂τ谌魏卧?jīng)忽視泵的人來說，這個(gè)概念可能是太熟悉了?？煽康谋迷谡９ぷ鲿r(shí)并不真正被認(rèn)可，但是如果泵的性能下降，或者更糟糕的是，該設(shè)備完全停止工作，那么可靠性會被錯(cuò)過。為避免泵停機(jī)和隨后的麻煩，必須遵守預(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃。

每天開始泵檢查。最重要的日常檢查之一是發(fā)動機(jī)油的質(zhì)量和水平。骯臟的油可能會導(dǎo)致嚴(yán)重的問題并降低發(fā)動機(jī)的使用壽命; 同樣，如果數(shù)量不足。根據(jù)制造商的建議更換機(jī)油或根據(jù)需要添加以達(dá)到水平。

檢查汽油水平，確保油箱已滿，或者至少滿足一天的使用量。同時(shí)尋找任何燃油或漏油跡象。如果液體滴落，請檢查該區(qū)域是否有可能需要擰緊或更換的部件。

清潔或可能更換空氣過濾器是另一個(gè)可以防止重大損壞的重要做法。堵塞，潮濕或骯臟的空氣過濾器會導(dǎo)致動力損失，并通過允許污垢或水進(jìn)入敏感區(qū)域來縮短發(fā)動機(jī)的使用壽命。泡沫元件可以清潔和重復(fù)使用，所以每天檢查一下就可以了。如果過濾器已損壞或缺少大塊，請將其更換。對于紙質(zhì)空氣過濾器，操作員應(yīng)按照推薦的時(shí)間表及時(shí)更換。

定期檢查軟管的狀況。如果它們磨損，磨損或有任何漏洞，則氣隙可能會導(dǎo)致泵失去吸力。修補(bǔ)任何孔并密封泄漏的接頭。應(yīng)該更換嚴(yán)重磨損的軟管。*，檢查機(jī)器的其余部分是否有螺栓，螺母或零件松動。

在所有的手術(shù)前檢查中，日常維護(hù)中最重要的事情可能就是在開始之前啟動泵。運(yùn)行干燥的泵會損壞密封件，導(dǎo)致更多問題的連鎖反應(yīng)。如果是自吸泵，只需加水即可。術(shù)語“自吸”有點(diǎn)用詞不當(dāng)，因?yàn)槊看问褂脮r(shí)必須將水添加到泵中。然后泵將接管，在蝸殼內(nèi)建立壓力并開始排放。

不太頻繁的檢查

一旦泵已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好了，就可以開始工作了。除日常檢查外，泵還需要其他維護(hù)檢查和服務(wù)。雖然這些不需要每天完成，但它們對泵的使用壽命至關(guān)重要，并應(yīng)定期按計(jì)劃進(jìn)行。一般來說，優(yōu)質(zhì)的泵引擎可以運(yùn)行幾千小時(shí)，并且遵循推薦的維護(hù)計(jì)劃只能增加該時(shí)間和泵的投資回報(bào)率。

有幾件事情需要每月檢查幾次，其他事件則更少。例如，紙張空氣過濾器應(yīng)在需要時(shí)更換。雖然泡沫過濾器可以清洗并重新使用，但是當(dāng)它開始分解或分解時(shí)，需要更換。

臟的火花塞可能會導(dǎo)致功率下降和起動性能差，因此應(yīng)每半月檢查一次火花塞是否有殘留油污，污垢，損壞或積碳過多的情況。用鋼絲刷或火花塞清潔器清潔火花塞。立即更換任何火花塞與裂紋瓷。

每年都要對泵進(jìn)行徹底檢查，檢查是否有骯臟，破損或未對齊的部件。這些部件可能會導(dǎo)致發(fā)動機(jī)或泵部件出現(xiàn)問題。檢查整臺機(jī)器可以*地了解需要清潔和修理的部件。

值得注意的是，灰塵狀況通常會縮短正常服務(wù)之間的時(shí)間長度，因?yàn)?的灰塵會堵塞過濾器元件或污染燃料和機(jī)油。取決于泵的環(huán)境，可能需要調(diào)整維護(hù)計(jì)劃以適應(yīng)低于*條件。

故障排除提示

即使定期進(jìn)行適當(dāng)?shù)念A(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃，泵仍然可能會遇到問題。這很不幸，但很常見。知道如何尋找并快速解決問題將使問題不再成為更昂貴，耗時(shí)的修復(fù)。

如果泵不啟動，罪魁禍?zhǔn)卓赡苁侨~輪或發(fā)動機(jī)。如果葉輪粘住，只需拆下泵蓋，清潔并重新安裝。至于引擎，幾個(gè)不同的東西可能會影響它，并阻止從開始。

首先要檢查的是火花塞。如果它被油渣，氣體或碳污染，請清潔它。如果它損壞了，請更換它。如果它干凈無損，請將其連接到插頭蓋并將插頭與發(fā)動機(jī)機(jī)身接地。拉起動器，看看火花是否微弱或不存在。如果新的或清潔的插頭沒有點(diǎn)燃，則點(diǎn)火系統(tǒng)可能有故障，可能需要更換。

如果火花塞松動或插頭浸濕燃油，發(fā)動機(jī)也可能無法啟動。如果火花塞是潮濕的，請檢查燃油旋塞是否關(guān)閉。如果是這樣，關(guān)閉阻風(fēng)門拉桿并拉動起動手柄6次，看電極是否變濕。如果電極干燥，問題可能與化油器的燃料吸入有關(guān)。試著看看燃油停在發(fā)動機(jī)的哪里。

其他一些事情可能會導(dǎo)致泵不能自行灌注。首先檢查泵吸入側(cè)的漏氣情況; 如果需要，擰緊吸入軟管或管道。檢查排水塞，確保它完全擰緊。泵殼內(nèi)的水不足也會阻止泵啟動。

發(fā)動機(jī)轉(zhuǎn)速也會影響泵送量。如果泵送量下降，則抽吸軟管可能太長或抽吸腔室上的零件松動可能需要重新擰緊。這也可能是由于需要降低高吸力，水通道漏水，機(jī)械密封磨損或斷裂或發(fā)動機(jī)輸出功率或速度下降造成的。

采取積極主動的預(yù)防措施，確保關(guān)鍵的維護(hù)服務(wù)不會被忽視，防止泵出現(xiàn)故障時(shí)產(chǎn)生多米諾骨牌效應(yīng)，浪費(fèi)時(shí)間并增加維修成本。這很簡單直接 - 泵的維護(hù)現(xiàn)在意味著更少的問題。遵循良好的維護(hù)計(jì)劃，例如上述步驟，是保持泵流量的*和*的方法之一。

Basic Preventive Maintenance to Keep Pumps Flowing

Performing preventive maintenance helps prevent pump downtime

It has been said, “You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.” This concept can be all-too-familiar for anyone who has ever neglected a pump. A dependable pump isn’t truly appreciated when it’s working properly but that dependability is really missed if a pump’s performance declines, or worse, the unit stops working altogether. To avoid pump downtime and subsequent headaches, a preventive maintenance program must be followed.

Start each day with a pump inspection. Among the most important daily checks is the quality and level of engine oil. Oil that’s dirty can cause serious problems and decrease the life of an engine; likewise, if there’s an insufficient amount of it. Change the oil or add if necessary to reach the level as per manufacturer recommendation.

Check the gasoline level as well, making sure the tank is full, or at least full enough for the day’s usage. Also look for any evidence of fuel or oil leaks. If a fluid is dripping, inspect the area for any parts that may need to be tightened or replaced.

Cleaning or possibly changing the air filter is another important practice that can prevent significant damage. A clogged, wet or dirty air filter can lead to a loss in power and shorten the life of an engine by allowing dirt or water into sensitive areas. A foam element can be cleaned and reused, so it’s fine to check daily. If the filter has been damaged or is missing chunks, replace it. For paper air filters, operators should follow a recommended schedule for replacement in a timely fashion.

Inspect the condition of the hoses regularly, as well. If they are worn, frayed or have any holes, the air gaps will likely cause the pump to lose suction. Patch any holes and seal leaking joints. A severely worn hose should be replaced. Finally, check the rest of the machine for broken bolts, nuts or loose parts.

Of all the pre-operation checks, perhaps the most important thing to remember for daily maintenance is priming the pump before starting. Running a pump dry will damage the seals, causing a chain reaction of further problems. If it’s a self-priming pump, simply add water. The term “self-priming” is somewhat of a misnomer, as water must be added to the pump each time it is used. The pump will then take over, build pressure within the volute and begin discharging.

Less-frequent Checks

Once the pump has been prepped, it’s ready to go to work. In addition to daily checks, a pump requires other maintenance checks and services. While those don’t need to be done daily, they are crucial to the pump’s life and should be kept up with on a regular schedule. Generally, quality pump engines can operate for a few thousand hours, and following recommended maintenance schedules can only increase that time and the pump’s ROI.

A few things need to be checked a couple of times a month, others even less frequently. For instance, a paper air filter should be changed when needed. Although a foam filter can be cleaned and re-used, when it begins to disintegrate or come apart, replacement is necessary.

Dirty spark plugs can cause a decrease in power and poor starting performance, so the spark plugs should be checked semi-monthly for oil residue, dirt, damage or excessive carbon buildup. Clean spark plugs with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner. Immediately replace any spark plugs with cracked porcelain.

On an annual basis, give the pump a thorough inspection for dirty, broken or misaligned parts. Such parts can cause problems with the engine or pump components. Inspecting the entire machine gives the most comprehensive view of what needs to be cleaned and repaired.

It’s also worth noting that dusty conditions typically shorten the length of time between regular services, as extreme dust can clog filter elements or contaminate fuel and oil. Depending on the pump’s environment, maintenance schedules may need to be adjusted to accommodate for less than optimal conditions.

Tips For Troubleshooting

Even with a regular, proper preventive maintenance program, pumps may still experience problems. This is unfortunate, but common. Knowing what to look for and addressing it quickly will keep the problem from becoming a more expensive, time-intensive repair.

If a pump won’t start, the culprit is likely the impeller or engine. If the impeller is sticking, simply disassemble it by taking the pump cover off, clean and reinstall. As for the engine, several different things could affect it and prevent if from starting.

The first thing to check is the spark plug. If it’s dirty with oil residue, gas or carbon, clean it. If it’s damaged, replace it. If it’s clean and damage-free, connect it to the plug cap and ground the plug against the engine body. Pull the starter to see if the spark is weak or nonexistent. If a new or cleaned plug doesn’t spark, the ignition system could be faulty and may need replacement.

The engine also might not start if the spark plug is loose or if the plug is wet with fuel. If the spark plug is wet, check to see that the fuel cock is closed. If so, close the choke lever and pull the starter handle a half-dozen times to see if the electrode becomes wet. If the electrode is dry, the problem may be with the fuel intake of the carburetor. Try to see where the fuel stops in the engine.

A number of other things could cause a pump to not self-prime. Start by checking for air leaks on the suction side of the pump; tighten the suction hose or pipe, if needed. Check the drain plug, as well, to ensure that it has been tightened completely. Insufficient water inside the pump casing will also prevent the pump from priming.

Engine speed can affect pumping volume, as well. If the pumping volume has dropped, the suction hose may be too long or loose parts on the suction chamber may need re-tightening. This might also be caused by a high suction lift that would need to be lowered, water leaking from the water passage, a worn or broken mechanical seal or a drop in engine output or speed.

Adopting a proactive preventive approach ensures that crucial maintenance services won’t be neglected, preventing a domino effect of problems as the pump goes down, time is lost and repair costs add up. It’s simple and straightforward - pump maintenance now will mean fewer issues later. Following a good maintenance program, such as the steps detailed above, is among the best and most inexpensive ways to keep a pump flowing.

不銹鋼離心泵|原裝離心泵