進(jìn)口渣漿泵|原裝渣漿泵

德國(guó)凱森始終堅(jiān)持“重質(zhì)量，講信譽(yù)”為宗旨。產(chǎn)品現(xiàn) 全國(guó)各地，并已逐步開發(fā)海外市場(chǎng)。公司多次被評(píng)為“重合同講信用”企業(yè)，深得用戶的信賴和廣泛的贊譽(yù)。

德國(guó)KAYSEN凱森進(jìn)口渣漿泵概述

渣漿泵(slurry pump)從工作原理上講屬于離心泵，從概念上講指通過借助離心力（泵的葉輪的旋轉(zhuǎn)）的作用使固、液混合介質(zhì)能量增加的一種機(jī)械，將電能轉(zhuǎn)換成介質(zhì)的動(dòng)能和勢(shì)能的設(shè)備。主要適用于：礦山、電廠、疏浚、冶金、化工、建材及石油等行業(yè)領(lǐng)域。渣漿泵的名稱是從輸送介質(zhì)的角度來劃分的一種離心泵。另外渣漿泵從不同角度還可以具體劃分不同類型。水泵除了抽水之外，還可以抽氣體、固體、固液混合體——礦粉泥漿！水泵用電在國(guó)家總電量中所占比重很大，水泵的節(jié)能情況對(duì)國(guó)民經(jīng)濟(jì)有著重要影響，水泵不但在節(jié)能環(huán)節(jié)中起著積極作用，在火力發(fā)電減排流程中也發(fā)揮著重要作用。渣漿泵不但比同類產(chǎn)品節(jié)能4%-8%，還為大氣脫離霧霾“魔爪”做貢獻(xiàn)。

一般將適用于輸送液體(水)中含有懸浮固體物的泵稱為渣漿泵。目前是選礦、選煤廠各工藝流程中不可缺少的設(shè)備之一。渣漿泵可按不同原則分為單級(jí)/多級(jí)、單吸/雙吸、懸臂、臥式/立式以及泵殼水平中開/垂直結(jié)合等型式，如圖所示，其基本結(jié)構(gòu)由葉輪、泵殼、泵軸、軸承及托架組成，動(dòng)力還包括電動(dòng)機(jī)，對(duì)輪或膠帶輪聯(lián)軸器等，耐磨件還包括襯板軸套等，密封件包括軸封、副葉輪等，支撐件包括支架等，但內(nèi)部原理是一致的，當(dāng)葉輪快速轉(zhuǎn)動(dòng)時(shí)，葉片促使介質(zhì)很快旋轉(zhuǎn)，旋轉(zhuǎn)著的介質(zhì)在離心力的作用下從葉輪中飛出，泵內(nèi)的介質(zhì)被拋出后，葉輪的中心部分形成真空區(qū)域，介質(zhì)在大氣壓力（或水壓）的作用下通過管網(wǎng)壓到了進(jìn)料管內(nèi)。這樣循環(huán)不已，就可以實(shí)現(xiàn)連續(xù)供料，從而達(dá)到工藝設(shè)計(jì)要求的揚(yáng)程和流量。當(dāng)然，入料方式目前多采用壓入式，即料位高于入料管，則可以減去從上水管或泵殼向內(nèi)部灌水的步驟。

主要特點(diǎn)：
首先講述一下離心泵和渣漿泵的關(guān)系，然后渣漿泵原理也就自然清晰了。離心概念是從泵原理來講的。泵有許多種，依據(jù)不同的角度可劃分幾十個(gè)類別。離心泵是從泵的工作原理上劃分，是通過離心力作用來達(dá)到給輸送介質(zhì)增壓的過程。另外還有常見的種類包括螺桿原理，柱塞原理等可以劃分出不同于離心原理的泵。說完離心泵概念，再說渣漿泵，渣漿泵又是從另外一個(gè)角度來劃分泵的，即從輸送介質(zhì)來劃分的。顧名思義，渣漿泵輸送的是含有渣滓的固體顆粒與水的混合物。但從原理上講渣漿泵屬于離心泵的一種。離心泵的主要工作部件是葉輪和機(jī)殼，機(jī)殼內(nèi)的葉輪裝置位于軸上，并與原動(dòng)機(jī)連接形成一個(gè)整體。當(dāng)原動(dòng)機(jī)機(jī)帶動(dòng)葉輪旋轉(zhuǎn)時(shí)，葉輪中的葉片迫使流體旋轉(zhuǎn)，即葉片對(duì)流體沿它的運(yùn)動(dòng)方向做功，從而迫使流體的壓力勢(shì)能和動(dòng)能增加。與此同時(shí)，流體在慣性力的作用下，從中心向葉輪邊緣流去，并以很高的的速度流出葉輪，進(jìn)入壓出室，再經(jīng)擴(kuò)散管排出，這個(gè)過程稱為壓水過程。同時(shí)，由于葉輪中心的流體流向邊緣，在葉輪中心形成低壓區(qū)，當(dāng)它具有足夠的真空時(shí)，在吸入端壓強(qiáng)的作用下（一般是大氣壓強(qiáng)），流體經(jīng)吸入室進(jìn)入葉輪，這個(gè)過程稱為吸水過程。由于葉輪連續(xù)的旋轉(zhuǎn)，流體也就連續(xù)的排出、吸入，形成連續(xù)的工作。離心式的泵（包括渣漿泵）的工作過程，實(shí)際上是一個(gè)能量傳遞和轉(zhuǎn)化的過程。它將電動(dòng)機(jī)高速旋轉(zhuǎn)的機(jī)械能，通過泵的葉片傳遞并轉(zhuǎn)化為被抽升流體的壓能和動(dòng)能。

主要優(yōu)點(diǎn)：

水力性能好

效率高

磨損率低

流道寬暢

抗堵塞性能好

汽蝕性能優(yōu)越

主要應(yīng)用：

化工

疏浚

礦山

電力

冶金

煤炭

建材

基本的預(yù)防性維護(hù)保持泵流動(dòng)

執(zhí)行預(yù)防性維護(hù)有助于防止泵停機(jī)

有人說：“你不知道自己得到了什么，直到它消失?！睂?duì)于任何曾經(jīng)忽視泵的人來說，這個(gè)概念可能是太熟悉了?？煽康谋迷谡９ぷ鲿r(shí)并不真正被認(rèn)可，但是如果泵的性能下降，或者更糟糕的是，該設(shè)備完全停止工作，那么可靠性會(huì)被錯(cuò)過。為避免泵停機(jī)和隨后的麻煩，必須遵守預(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃。

每天開始泵檢查。最重要的日常檢查之一是發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)油的質(zhì)量和水平。骯臟的油可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致嚴(yán)重的問題并降低發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)的使用壽命; 同樣，如果數(shù)量不足。根據(jù)制造商的建議更換機(jī)油或根據(jù)需要添加以達(dá)到水平。

檢查汽油水平，確保油箱已滿，或者至少滿足一天的使用量。同時(shí)尋找任何燃油或漏油跡象。如果液體滴落，請(qǐng)檢查該區(qū)域是否有可能需要擰緊或更換的部件。

清潔或可能更換空氣過濾器是另一個(gè)可以防止重大損壞的重要做法。堵塞，潮濕或骯臟的空氣過濾器會(huì)導(dǎo)致動(dòng)力損失，并通過允許污垢或水進(jìn)入敏感區(qū)域來縮短發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)的使用壽命。泡沫元件可以清潔和重復(fù)使用，所以每天檢查一下就可以了。如果過濾器已損壞或缺少大塊，請(qǐng)將其更換。對(duì)于紙質(zhì)空氣過濾器，操作員應(yīng)按照推薦的時(shí)間表及時(shí)更換。

定期檢查軟管的狀況。如果它們磨損，磨損或有任何漏洞，則氣隙可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致泵失去吸力。修補(bǔ)任何孔并密封泄漏的接頭。應(yīng)該更換嚴(yán)重磨損的軟管。*，檢查機(jī)器的其余部分是否有螺栓，螺母或零件松動(dòng)。

在所有的手術(shù)前檢查中，日常維護(hù)中最重要的事情可能就是在開始之前啟動(dòng)泵。運(yùn)行干燥的泵會(huì)損壞密封件，導(dǎo)致更多問題的連鎖反應(yīng)。如果是自吸泵，只需加水即可。術(shù)語“自吸”有點(diǎn)用詞不當(dāng)，因?yàn)槊看问褂脮r(shí)必須將水添加到泵中。然后泵將接管，在蝸殼內(nèi)建立壓力并開始排放。

不太頻繁的檢查

一旦泵已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好了，就可以開始工作了。除日常檢查外，泵還需要其他維護(hù)檢查和服務(wù)。雖然這些不需要每天完成，但它們對(duì)泵的使用壽命至關(guān)重要，并應(yīng)定期按計(jì)劃進(jìn)行。一般來說， 的泵引擎可以運(yùn)行幾千小時(shí)，并且遵循推薦的維護(hù)計(jì)劃只能增加該時(shí)間和泵的效率。

有幾件事情需要每月檢查幾次，其他事件則更少。例如，紙張空氣過濾器應(yīng)在需要時(shí)更換。雖然泡沫過濾器可以清洗并重新使用，但是當(dāng)它開始分解或分解時(shí)，需要更換。

臟的火花塞可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致功率下降和起動(dòng)性能差，因此應(yīng)每半月檢查一次火花塞是否有殘留油污，污垢，損壞或積碳過多的情況。用鋼絲刷或火花塞清潔器清潔火花塞。立即更換任何火花塞與裂紋瓷。

每年都要對(duì)泵進(jìn)行 檢查，檢查是否有骯臟，破損或未對(duì)齊的部件。這些部件可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)或泵部件出現(xiàn)問題。檢查整臺(tái)機(jī)器可以*地了解需要清潔和修理的部件。

值得注意的是，灰塵狀況通常會(huì)縮短正常服務(wù)之間的時(shí)間長(zhǎng)度，因?yàn)?的灰塵會(huì)堵塞過濾器元件或污染燃料和機(jī)油。取決于泵的環(huán)境，可能需要調(diào)整維護(hù)計(jì)劃以適應(yīng)低于*條件。

故障排除提示

即使定期進(jìn)行適當(dāng)?shù)念A(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃，泵仍然可能會(huì)遇到問題。這很不幸，但很常見。知道如何尋找并快速解決問題將使問題不再成為更昂貴，耗時(shí)的修復(fù)。

如果泵不啟動(dòng)，罪魁禍?zhǔn)卓赡苁侨~輪或發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)。如果葉輪粘住，只需拆下泵蓋，清潔并重新安裝。至于引擎，幾個(gè)不同的東西可能會(huì)影響它，并阻止從開始。

首先要檢查的是火花塞。如果它被油渣，氣體或碳污染，請(qǐng)清潔它。如果它損壞了，請(qǐng)更換它。如果它干凈無損，請(qǐng)將其連接到插頭蓋并將插頭與發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)機(jī)身接地。拉起動(dòng)器，看看火花是否微弱或不存在。如果新的或清潔的插頭沒有點(diǎn)燃，則點(diǎn)火系統(tǒng)可能有故障，可能需要更換。

如果火花塞松動(dòng)或插頭浸濕燃油，發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)也可能無法啟動(dòng)。如果火花塞是潮濕的，請(qǐng)檢查燃油旋塞是否關(guān)閉。如果是這樣，關(guān)閉阻風(fēng)門拉桿并拉動(dòng)起動(dòng)手柄6次，看電極是否變濕。如果電極干燥，問題可能與化油器的燃料吸入有關(guān)。試著看看燃油停在發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)的哪里。

其他一些事情可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致泵不能自行灌注。首先檢查泵吸入側(cè)的漏氣情況; 如果需要，擰緊吸入軟管或管道。檢查排水塞，確保它完全擰緊。泵殼內(nèi)的水不足也會(huì)阻止泵啟動(dòng)。

發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)轉(zhuǎn)速也會(huì)影響泵送量。如果泵送量下降，則抽吸軟管可能太長(zhǎng)或抽吸腔室上的零件松動(dòng)可能需要重新擰緊。這也可能是由于需要降低高吸力，水通道漏水，機(jī)械密封磨損或斷裂或發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)輸出功率或速度下降造成的。

采取積極主動(dòng)的預(yù)防措施，確保關(guān)鍵的維護(hù)服務(wù)不會(huì)被忽視，防止泵出現(xiàn)故障時(shí)產(chǎn)生多米諾骨牌效應(yīng)，浪費(fèi)時(shí)間并增加維修成本。這很簡(jiǎn)單直接 - 泵的維護(hù)現(xiàn)在意味著更少的問題。遵循良好的維護(hù)計(jì)劃，例如上述步驟，是保持泵流量的*和*的方法之一。

Basic Preventive Maintenance to Keep Pumps Flowing

Performing preventive maintenance helps prevent pump downtime

It has been said, “You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.” This concept can be all-too-familiar for anyone who has ever neglected a pump. A dependable pump isn’t truly appreciated when it’s working properly but that dependability is really missed if a pump’s performance declines, or worse, the unit stops working altogether. To avoid pump downtime and subsequent headaches, a preventive maintenance program must be followed.

Start each day with a pump inspection. Among the most important daily checks is the quality and level of engine oil. Oil that’s dirty can cause serious problems and decrease the life of an engine; likewise, if there’s an insufficient amount of it. Change the oil or add if necessary to reach the level as per manufacturer recommendation.

Check the gasoline level as well, making sure the tank is full, or at least full enough for the day’s usage. Also look for any evidence of fuel or oil leaks. If a fluid is dripping, inspect the area for any parts that may need to be tightened or replaced.

Cleaning or possibly changing the air filter is another important practice that can prevent significant damage. A clogged, wet or dirty air filter can lead to a loss in power and shorten the life of an engine by allowing dirt or water into sensitive areas. A foam element can be cleaned and reused, so it’s fine to check daily. If the filter has been damaged or is missing chunks, replace it. For paper air filters, operators should follow a recommended schedule for replacement in a timely fashion.

Inspect the condition of the hoses regularly, as well. If they are worn, frayed or have any holes, the air gaps will likely cause the pump to lose suction. Patch any holes and seal leaking joints. A severely worn hose should be replaced. Finally, check the rest of the machine for broken bolts, nuts or loose parts.

Of all the pre-operation checks, perhaps the most important thing to remember for daily maintenance is priming the pump before starting. Running a pump dry will damage the seals, causing a chain reaction of further problems. If it’s a self-priming pump, simply add water. The term “self-priming” is somewhat of a misnomer, as water must be added to the pump each time it is used. The pump will then take over, build pressure within the volute and begin discharging.

Less-frequent Checks

Once the pump has been prepped, it’s ready to go to work. In addition to daily checks, a pump requires other maintenance checks and services. While those don’t need to be done daily, they are crucial to the pump’s life and should be kept up with on a regular schedule. Generally, quality pump engines can operate for a few thousand hours, and following recommended maintenance schedules can only increase that time and the pump’s ROI.

A few things need to be checked a couple of times a month, others even less frequently. For instance, a paper air filter should be changed when needed. Although a foam filter can be cleaned and re-used, when it begins to disintegrate or come apart, replacement is necessary.

Dirty spark plugs can cause a decrease in power and poor starting performance, so the spark plugs should be checked semi-monthly for oil residue, dirt, damage or excessive carbon buildup. Clean spark plugs with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner. Immediately replace any spark plugs with cracked porcelain.

On an annual basis, give the pump a thorough inspection for dirty, broken or misaligned parts. Such parts can cause problems with the engine or pump components. Inspecting the entire machine gives the most comprehensive view of what needs to be cleaned and repaired.

It’s also worth noting that dusty conditions typically shorten the length of time between regular services, as extreme dust can clog filter elements or contaminate fuel and oil. Depending on the pump’s environment, maintenance schedules may need to be adjusted to accommodate for less than optimal conditions.

Tips For Troubleshooting

Even with a regular, proper preventive maintenance program, pumps may still experience problems. This is unfortunate, but common. Knowing what to look for and addressing it quickly will keep the problem from becoming a more expensive, time-intensive repair.

If a pump won’t start, the culprit is likely the impeller or engine. If the impeller is sticking, simply disassemble it by taking the pump cover off, clean and reinstall. As for the engine, several different things could affect it and prevent if from starting.

The first thing to check is the spark plug. If it’s dirty with oil residue, gas or carbon, clean it. If it’s damaged, replace it. If it’s clean and damage-free, connect it to the plug cap and ground the plug against the engine body. Pull the starter to see if the spark is weak or nonexistent. If a new or cleaned plug doesn’t spark, the ignition system could be faulty and may need replacement.

The engine also might not start if the spark plug is loose or if the plug is wet with fuel. If the spark plug is wet, check to see that the fuel cock is closed. If so, close the choke lever and pull the starter handle a half-dozen times to see if the electrode becomes wet. If the electrode is dry, the problem may be with the fuel intake of the carburetor. Try to see where the fuel stops in the engine.

A number of other things could cause a pump to not self-prime. Start by checking for air leaks on the suction side of the pump; tighten the suction hose or pipe, if needed. Check the drain plug, as well, to ensure that it has been tightened completely. Insufficient water inside the pump casing will also prevent the pump from priming.

Engine speed can affect pumping volume, as well. If the pumping volume has dropped, the suction hose may be too long or loose parts on the suction chamber may need re-tightening. This might also be caused by a high suction lift that would need to be lowered, water leaking from the water passage, a worn or broken mechanical seal or a drop in engine output or speed.

Adopting a proactive preventive approach ensures that crucial maintenance services won’t be neglected, preventing a domino effect of problems as the pump goes down, time is lost and repair costs add up. It’s simple and straightforward - pump maintenance now will mean fewer issues later. Following a good maintenance program, such as the steps detailed above, is among the best and most inexpensive ways to keep a pump flowing.

進(jìn)口渣漿泵|原裝進(jìn)口渣漿泵