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        進(jìn)口塑料泵|原裝進(jìn)口塑料泵
        • 品牌:德國(guó)KAYSEN
        • 發(fā)布日期: 2018-03-28
        • 更新日期: 2024-10-21
        產(chǎn)品詳請(qǐng)
        品牌 德國(guó)KAYSEN
        連接形式 法蘭
        材質(zhì) 鑄鐵、不銹鋼、鋁合金、氟墮料
        型號(hào) KAYSEN
        工作壓差 0
        適用范圍 水、污水、石油、化工、電子、飲料、食品
        壓力環(huán)境 常壓
        介質(zhì)溫度 1200℃
        驅(qū)動(dòng)方式 電動(dòng)
        適用介質(zhì)

        塑料泵|原裝塑料泵


        凱森(KAYSEN)品牌,*的十*,我們的塑料泵在SchwbischGmnd生產(chǎn)。

        凱森始終堅(jiān)持“重質(zhì)量,講信譽(yù)”為宗旨。產(chǎn)品現(xiàn)暢銷(xiāo)全國(guó)各地,并已逐步開(kāi)發(fā)海外市場(chǎng)。公司多次被評(píng)為“重合同講信用”企業(yè),深得用戶(hù)的信賴(lài)和廣泛的贊譽(yù)。


        KAYSEN凱森進(jìn)口塑料泵概述:
        塑料泵是凱森在離心泵的基礎(chǔ)上,采用磁力耦合實(shí)現(xiàn)力矩的無(wú)接觸傳遞,是無(wú)軸封、全密封、無(wú)泄漏、耐腐蝕、無(wú)污染的新型環(huán)保型臥式離心泵。
        塑料泵的選材
        工程塑料是指被用做工業(yè)零件或外殼材料的工業(yè)用塑料,是強(qiáng)度、耐沖擊性、耐熱性、硬度及抗老化性均優(yōu)的塑料。工程塑料泵是指用這些材料制作的,有特殊的物理、化學(xué)性能,可以滿足不同工業(yè)要求的產(chǎn)品。
        常用的材料
        1. 熱性質(zhì):玻璃轉(zhuǎn)移溫度(Tg)及熔點(diǎn)(Tm);熱變形溫度(HDT)高;長(zhǎng)期使用溫度高(UL-746B);使用溫度范圍大;熱膨脹系數(shù)小。
        2. 機(jī)械性質(zhì):高強(qiáng)度、高機(jī)械模數(shù)、低潛變性、強(qiáng)耐磨損及耐疲勞性。
        3. 其它:耐化學(xué)藥品性、抗電性、耐燃性、耐候性、尺寸安定性佳。
        工程塑料的結(jié)構(gòu)
        被當(dāng)做通用性工程塑料者包括聚碳酸酯(PC)、聚酰胺(尼龍)、聚縮醛(POM)、變性聚苯醚(變性PPE)、聚酯(PETP,PBTP)、聚苯硫醚(PPS)、聚芳基酯,熱硬化性塑料則有不飽和聚酯、酚塑料、環(huán)氧塑料等。
        它們的基本特性為拉伸強(qiáng)度均超過(guò)50Mpa,抗拉強(qiáng)度在500kg/cm ,耐沖擊性超過(guò)50J/m,彎曲彈性率在24000kg/cm ,負(fù)載繞曲溫度超過(guò)100℃,硬度、老化性?xún)?yōu)。聚丙烯若改善其硬度和耐寒性,也可列入工程塑料的范圍。此外,還包括較特殊者的強(qiáng)度弱、耐熱耐藥品性?xún)?yōu)的氟素塑料,耐熱性?xún)?yōu)的硅溶融化合物,以及聚酰胺酰亞胺、聚酰亞胺、Polybismaleimide、Polysufone(PSF)、PES、丙烯塑料、變性蜜胺塑料、BTResin、PEEK、PEI、液晶塑料等。
        各工程塑料的化學(xué)構(gòu)造不同,所以制成的工程塑料泵的耐藥品性、摩擦特性、電機(jī)特性等有所差異。由于各工程塑料的成型性不同,這樣就造成了工程塑料泵應(yīng)用上的局限。熱硬化型工程塑料的制造的工程塑料泵耐沖擊性較差,因此大多添加玻璃纖維。工程塑料除了聚碳酸酯等耐沖擊性大外,通常具有硬、脆、延伸率小的性質(zhì),但如果添加20—30%的玻璃纖維,則它制成的工程塑料泵耐沖擊性將有所改善。

        產(chǎn)品優(yōu)勢(shì)
        1、不需灌引水。吸程高達(dá)5m,揚(yáng)程達(dá)70m,出口壓力≥6bar。
        2、流動(dòng)寬敞,通過(guò)性能好,允許通過(guò)*顆粒直徑達(dá)10mm。抽送泥漿、雜質(zhì)時(shí),對(duì)泵磨損甚微;
        3、揚(yáng)程、流量可通過(guò)氣閥開(kāi)度實(shí)現(xiàn)無(wú)級(jí)調(diào)節(jié)(氣壓調(diào)節(jié)在1-7 bar之間);
        4、該泵無(wú)旋轉(zhuǎn)部件,沒(méi)有軸封,隔膜等抽送的介質(zhì)與泵的運(yùn)動(dòng)部件、工作介質(zhì)完全隔開(kāi),所輸送的介質(zhì)不會(huì)向外泄漏。所以抽送有毒、易揮發(fā)或腐蝕性介質(zhì)時(shí),不會(huì)造成環(huán)境污染和危害人身安全;
        5、不必用電,在易燃、易爆場(chǎng)所使用安全可靠;
        6、可以浸沒(méi)在介質(zhì)中工作;
        7、使用方便、工作可靠、開(kāi)停只需簡(jiǎn)單地打開(kāi)和關(guān)閉氣體閥門(mén)。即使由于意外情況而長(zhǎng)時(shí)間無(wú)介質(zhì)運(yùn)行或突然停機(jī)泵也不會(huì)因此而損壞,一旦超負(fù)荷,泵會(huì)自動(dòng)地停機(jī),具有自我保護(hù)性能,當(dāng)負(fù)荷恢復(fù)正常后,又能自動(dòng)啟動(dòng)運(yùn)行;
        8、結(jié)構(gòu)簡(jiǎn)單、易損件少,該泵結(jié)構(gòu)簡(jiǎn)單,安裝,維修方便,泵輸送的介質(zhì)不會(huì)接觸到配氣閥,聯(lián)桿等運(yùn)動(dòng)部件,不象其他類(lèi)型的泵因轉(zhuǎn)子、活塞、齒輪、葉片等部件的磨損而使性能逐步下降;
        9、可輸送較粘的液體(粘度在1萬(wàn)厘泊以下);
        10、本泵無(wú)須用油潤(rùn)滑,即使空轉(zhuǎn),對(duì)泵也無(wú)任何影響,這是該泵*特點(diǎn)。
        塑料泵廣泛應(yīng)用于化工、食品、釀造、制藥、電鍍、造紙、環(huán)保、水 處理等部門(mén),輸送酸、堿、鹽等腐蝕性液體。



        適用介質(zhì):
        各種粘度的液體,特別是粘稠難輸送的介質(zhì)。
        各種濃度的液體及經(jīng)過(guò)分離脫水的干物料。
        含有固體顆粒、纖維、懸浮物的液體。
        液體、氣體、固體的混合物。
        不能受攪動(dòng)、剪切、掠奪的敏感性液體。
        腐蝕性液體。

        主要優(yōu)點(diǎn):
        耐磨
        耐高溫
        使用壽命長(zhǎng)
        不老化
        耐腐
        拆卸檢修方便
        運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)平穩(wěn)
        機(jī)械強(qiáng)度高
        密封性能?chē)?yán)格可靠
        結(jié)構(gòu)先進(jìn)合理

        主要應(yīng)用:
        制藥
        釀造
        化工
        食品
        環(huán)保
        電鍍
        造紙
        水處理

        主要特點(diǎn):
        流量、壓力穩(wěn)定,無(wú)脈動(dòng)。
        變轉(zhuǎn)速即可改變輸出流量,可用作計(jì)量投加。
        吸入能力強(qiáng),工作噪聲小,無(wú)泄漏,無(wú)溫升。
        適應(yīng)范圍廣,可輸送一切流動(dòng)介質(zhì)甚至非流動(dòng)物料。
        具有特殊螺旋面型腔的彈性定子與具有大導(dǎo)程大齒高的轉(zhuǎn)子相嚙合,在定子型腔內(nèi)構(gòu)成連續(xù)的密封線將吸入腔與壓出腔分隔,轉(zhuǎn)子轉(zhuǎn)動(dòng)時(shí)型腔連續(xù)地向排出方向運(yùn)動(dòng),使物料不斷地被抽吸與排出。

        基本的預(yù)防性維護(hù)保持泵流動(dòng)

        執(zhí)行預(yù)防性維護(hù)有助于防止泵停機(jī)

        有人說(shuō):“你不知道自己得到了什么,直到它消失?!睂?duì)于任何曾經(jīng)忽視泵的人來(lái)說(shuō),這個(gè)概念可能是太熟悉了。可靠的泵在正常工作時(shí)并不真正被認(rèn)可,但是如果泵的性能下降,或者更糟糕的是,該設(shè)備完全停止工作,那么可靠性會(huì)被錯(cuò)過(guò)。為避免泵停機(jī)和隨后的麻煩,必須遵守預(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃。

        每天開(kāi)始泵檢查。最重要的日常檢查之一是發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)油的質(zhì)量和水平。骯臟的油可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致嚴(yán)重的問(wèn)題并降低發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)的使用壽命; 同樣,如果數(shù)量不足。根據(jù)制造商的建議更換機(jī)油或根據(jù)需要添加以達(dá)到水平。

        檢查汽油水平,確保油箱已滿,或者至少滿足一天的使用量。同時(shí)尋找任何燃油或漏油跡象。如果液體滴落,請(qǐng)檢查該區(qū)域是否有可能需要擰緊或更換的部件。

        清潔或可能更換空氣過(guò)濾器是另一個(gè)可以防止重大損壞的重要做法。堵塞,潮濕或骯臟的空氣過(guò)濾器會(huì)導(dǎo)致動(dòng)力損失,并通過(guò)允許污垢或水進(jìn)入敏感區(qū)域來(lái)縮短發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)的使用壽命。泡沫元件可以清潔和重復(fù)使用,所以每天檢查一下就可以了。如果過(guò)濾器已損壞或缺少大塊,請(qǐng)將其更換。對(duì)于紙質(zhì)空氣過(guò)濾器,操作員應(yīng)按照推薦的時(shí)間表及時(shí)更換。

        定期檢查軟管的狀況。如果它們磨損,磨損或有任何漏洞,則氣隙可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致泵失去吸力。修補(bǔ)任何孔并密封泄漏的接頭。應(yīng)該更換嚴(yán)重磨損的軟管。*,檢查機(jī)器的其余部分是否有螺栓,螺母或零件松動(dòng)。

        在所有的手術(shù)前檢查中,日常維護(hù)中最重要的事情可能就是在開(kāi)始之前啟動(dòng)泵。運(yùn)行干燥的泵會(huì)損壞密封件,導(dǎo)致更多問(wèn)題的連鎖反應(yīng)。如果是自吸泵,只需加水即可。術(shù)語(yǔ)“自吸”有點(diǎn)用詞不當(dāng),因?yàn)槊看问褂脮r(shí)必須將水添加到泵中。然后泵將接管,在蝸殼內(nèi)建立壓力并開(kāi)始排放。

        不太頻繁的檢查

        一旦泵已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好了,就可以開(kāi)始工作了。除日常檢查外,泵還需要其他維護(hù)檢查和服務(wù)。雖然這些不需要每天完成,但它們對(duì)泵的使用壽命至關(guān)重要,并應(yīng)定期按計(jì)劃進(jìn)行。一般來(lái)說(shuō),優(yōu)質(zhì)的泵引擎可以運(yùn)行幾千小時(shí),并且遵循推薦的維護(hù)計(jì)劃只能增加該時(shí)間和泵的投資回報(bào)率。

        有幾件事情需要每月檢查幾次,其他事件則更少。例如,紙張空氣過(guò)濾器應(yīng)在需要時(shí)更換。雖然泡沫過(guò)濾器可以清洗并重新使用,但是當(dāng)它開(kāi)始分解或分解時(shí),需要更換。

        臟的火花塞可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致功率下降和起動(dòng)性能差,因此應(yīng)每半月檢查一次火花塞是否有殘留油污,污垢,損壞或積碳過(guò)多的情況。用鋼絲刷或火花塞清潔器清潔火花塞。立即更換任何火花塞與裂紋瓷。

        每年都要對(duì)泵進(jìn)行徹底檢查,檢查是否有骯臟,破損或未對(duì)齊的部件。這些部件可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)或泵部件出現(xiàn)問(wèn)題。檢查整臺(tái)機(jī)器可以*地了解需要清潔和修理的部件。

        值得注意的是,灰塵狀況通常會(huì)縮短正常服務(wù)之間的時(shí)間長(zhǎng)度,因?yàn)?的灰塵會(huì)堵塞過(guò)濾器元件或污染燃料和機(jī)油。取決于泵的環(huán)境,可能需要調(diào)整維護(hù)計(jì)劃以適應(yīng)低于*條件。

        故障排除提示

        即使定期進(jìn)行適當(dāng)?shù)念A(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃,泵仍然可能會(huì)遇到問(wèn)題。這很不幸,但很常見(jiàn)。知道如何尋找并快速解決問(wèn)題將使問(wèn)題不再成為更昂貴,耗時(shí)的修復(fù)。

        如果泵不啟動(dòng),罪魁禍?zhǔn)卓赡苁侨~輪或發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)。如果葉輪粘住,只需拆下泵蓋,清潔并重新安裝。至于引擎,幾個(gè)不同的東西可能會(huì)影響它,并阻止從開(kāi)始。

        首先要檢查的是火花塞。如果它被油渣,氣體或碳污染,請(qǐng)清潔它。如果它損壞了,請(qǐng)更換它。如果它干凈無(wú)損,請(qǐng)將其連接到插頭蓋并將插頭與發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)機(jī)身接地。拉起動(dòng)器,看看火花是否微弱或不存在。如果新的或清潔的插頭沒(méi)有點(diǎn)燃,則點(diǎn)火系統(tǒng)可能有故障,可能需要更換。

        如果火花塞松動(dòng)或插頭浸濕燃油,發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)也可能無(wú)法啟動(dòng)。如果火花塞是潮濕的,請(qǐng)檢查燃油旋塞是否關(guān)閉。如果是這樣,關(guān)閉阻風(fēng)門(mén)拉桿并拉動(dòng)起動(dòng)手柄6次,看電極是否變濕。如果電極干燥,問(wèn)題可能與化油器的燃料吸入有關(guān)。試著看看燃油停在發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)的哪里。

        其他一些事情可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致泵不能自行灌注。首先檢查泵吸入側(cè)的漏氣情況; 如果需要,擰緊吸入軟管或管道。檢查排水塞,確保它完全擰緊。泵殼內(nèi)的水不足也會(huì)阻止泵啟動(dòng)。

        發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)轉(zhuǎn)速也會(huì)影響泵送量。如果泵送量下降,則抽吸軟管可能太長(zhǎng)或抽吸腔室上的零件松動(dòng)可能需要重新擰緊。這也可能是由于需要降低高吸力,水通道漏水,機(jī)械密封磨損或斷裂或發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)輸出功率或速度下降造成的。

        采取積極主動(dòng)的預(yù)防措施,確保關(guān)鍵的維護(hù)服務(wù)不會(huì)被忽視,防止泵出現(xiàn)故障時(shí)產(chǎn)生多米諾骨牌效應(yīng),浪費(fèi)時(shí)間并增加維修成本。這很簡(jiǎn)單直接 - 泵的維護(hù)現(xiàn)在意味著更少的問(wèn)題。遵循良好的維護(hù)計(jì)劃,例如上述步驟,是保持泵流量的*和*的方法之一。

        Basic Preventive Maintenance to Keep Pumps Flowing

        Performing preventive maintenance helps prevent pump downtime

        It has been said, “You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.” This concept can be all-too-familiar for anyone who has ever neglected a pump. A dependable pump isn’t truly appreciated when it’s working properly but that dependability is really missed if a pump’s performance declines, or worse, the unit stops working altogether. To avoid pump downtime and subsequent headaches, a preventive maintenance program must be followed.

        Start each day with a pump inspection. Among the most important daily checks is the quality and level of engine oil. Oil that’s dirty can cause serious problems and decrease the life of an engine; likewise, if there’s an insufficient amount of it. Change the oil or add if necessary to reach the level as per manufacturer recommendation.

        Check the gasoline level as well, making sure the tank is full, or at least full enough for the day’s usage. Also look for any evidence of fuel or oil leaks. If a fluid is dripping, inspect the area for any parts that may need to be tightened or replaced.

        Cleaning or possibly changing the air filter is another important practice that can prevent significant damage. A clogged, wet or dirty air filter can lead to a loss in power and shorten the life of an engine by allowing dirt or water into sensitive areas. A foam element can be cleaned and reused, so it’s fine to check daily. If the filter has been damaged or is missing chunks, replace it. For paper air filters, operators should follow a recommended schedule for replacement in a timely fashion.

        Inspect the condition of the hoses regularly, as well. If they are worn, frayed or have any holes, the air gaps will likely cause the pump to lose suction. Patch any holes and seal leaking joints. A severely worn hose should be replaced. Finally, check the rest of the machine for broken bolts, nuts or loose parts.

        Of all the pre-operation checks, perhaps the most important thing to remember for daily maintenance is priming the pump before starting. Running a pump dry will damage the seals, causing a chain reaction of further problems. If it’s a self-priming pump, simply add water. The term “self-priming” is somewhat of a misnomer, as water must be added to the pump each time it is used. The pump will then take over, build pressure within the volute and begin discharging.

        Less-frequent Checks

        Once the pump has been prepped, it’s ready to go to work. In addition to daily checks, a pump requires other maintenance checks and services. While those don’t need to be done daily, they are crucial to the pump’s life and should be kept up with on a regular schedule. Generally, quality pump engines can operate for a few thousand hours, and following recommended maintenance schedules can only increase that time and the pump’s ROI.

        A few things need to be checked a couple of times a month, others even less frequently. For instance, a paper air filter should be changed when needed. Although a foam filter can be cleaned and re-used, when it begins to disintegrate or come apart, replacement is necessary.

        Dirty spark plugs can cause a decrease in power and poor starting performance, so the spark plugs should be checked semi-monthly for oil residue, dirt, damage or excessive carbon buildup. Clean spark plugs with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner. Immediately replace any spark plugs with cracked porcelain.

        On an annual basis, give the pump a thorough inspection for dirty, broken or misaligned parts. Such parts can cause problems with the engine or pump components. Inspecting the entire machine gives the most comprehensive view of what needs to be cleaned and repaired.

        It’s also worth noting that dusty conditions typically shorten the length of time between regular services, as extreme dust can clog filter elements or contaminate fuel and oil. Depending on the pump’s environment, maintenance schedules may need to be adjusted to accommodate for less than optimal conditions.

        Tips For Troubleshooting

        Even with a regular, proper preventive maintenance program, pumps may still experience problems. This is unfortunate, but common. Knowing what to look for and addressing it quickly will keep the problem from becoming a more expensive, time-intensive repair.

        If a pump won’t start, the culprit is likely the impeller or engine. If the impeller is sticking, simply disassemble it by taking the pump cover off, clean and reinstall. As for the engine, several different things could affect it and prevent if from starting.

        The first thing to check is the spark plug. If it’s dirty with oil residue, gas or carbon, clean it. If it’s damaged, replace it. If it’s clean and damage-free, connect it to the plug cap and ground the plug against the engine body. Pull the starter to see if the spark is weak or nonexistent. If a new or cleaned plug doesn’t spark, the ignition system could be faulty and may need replacement.

        The engine also might not start if the spark plug is loose or if the plug is wet with fuel. If the spark plug is wet, check to see that the fuel cock is closed. If so, close the choke lever and pull the starter handle a half-dozen times to see if the electrode becomes wet. If the electrode is dry, the problem may be with the fuel intake of the carburetor. Try to see where the fuel stops in the engine.

        A number of other things could cause a pump to not self-prime. Start by checking for air leaks on the suction side of the pump; tighten the suction hose or pipe, if needed. Check the drain plug, as well, to ensure that it has been tightened completely. Insufficient water inside the pump casing will also prevent the pump from priming.

        Engine speed can affect pumping volume, as well. If the pumping volume has dropped, the suction hose may be too long or loose parts on the suction chamber may need re-tightening. This might also be caused by a high suction lift that would need to be lowered, water leaking from the water passage, a worn or broken mechanical seal or a drop in engine output or speed.

        Adopting a proactive preventive approach ensures that crucial maintenance services won’t be neglected, preventing a domino effect of problems as the pump goes down, time is lost and repair costs add up. It’s simple and straightforward - pump maintenance now will mean fewer issues later. Following a good maintenance program, such as the steps detailed above, is among the best and most inexpensive ways to keep a pump flowing.


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